Dinner at Terra Dining

The Food

The first listed course was Blini, Smoked Pike Conger Serunding Mousse and Caviar. It sets up something that continues throughout the meal: familiar Malaysian ideas appearing in forms you don't necessarily expect.

Next came the Fried Mochi, Shiitake, Tofu and 'Duckkwa', followed by Salted Egg Mung Bean Curry, Onion Jam, Cauliflower and Poppadom.

Taken together with the opening bites, there is quite a bit going on already. Yet it doesn't feel like a checklist of Malaysian flavours. The references are there, but the kitchen has enough confidence to play with them rather than simply reproduce them.

Then came one of the more interesting ideas of the evening.

The Squid, 'Laksabayon', Sarawak Laksa XO Sauce and Cucumberbrings two very different laksa traditions together. The laksabayon draws from the flavours of Terengganu's white laksam, while the other side of the dish heads across the country towards Sarawak laksa. It sounds like the sort of combination that could become confused very quickly, but the connection works. Tatler similarly describes Terra's laksabayon as being inspired by Terengganu white laksa flavours.

The Slipper Lobster was out of season so they replaced it with Tiger Prawn. Together with Otak-otak, Bamboo Clam and Celtucecontinued that theme of taking recognisable flavours and changing their context.

After that, Heirloom Tomato, Tomato Water and Rasam Oil was a lighter interlude before the fish.

The menu calls the next dish simply Mystery Fish, Masak Lemak Beurre Blanc, Pandan and Chayote Leaves. There's a bit of fun behind that name because the fish changes according to what is available, and you're invited to work out what you're eating. The charcoal-grilled fish is complemented with a masak lemak-inspired beurre blanc, and the accompanying flatbread is there to mop up the sauce.

And you do want the flatbread for that sauce.

The Main Course

We chose the Pureblood Wagyu, Rendang Beef Cheek and Thai Basil Palak option for the main course, which carries an additional RM200 supplement. This was deftly executed.

With an ingredient like Wagyu, there is always the temptation to do too much around it. Here, the beef was treated with respect. Beautifully cooked, still pink through the centre, it had enough around it to make the course interesting without losing sight of what should be the star of the plate.

The accompanying rendang beef cheek and Thai basil palakgave the dish its Malaysian and regional character. The contrast between the Wagyu and the deeper, slow-cooked character of the cheek was particularly enjoyable.

By this point, though, Terra was certainly making sure nobody was leaving hungry.

Desserts

The transition into dessert started with Guava & Kedondong Sorbet with Sour Plum, bringing acidity and freshness after the heavier main.

Then came something I wouldn't have thought of putting together myself - Carrot Halwa Tart, Pistachio, Thosai Ice Cream and Mango Chutney.

Yes, you read right. Thosai ice cream.

That's not something the mind wraps itself around particularly easily until you actually eat it. But that's what Chef Chong came up with, taking something deeply familiar and moving its flavour into an entirely different form.

Dessert wasn't finished yet. There was still the petit fours.

There was Pandan Sponge with Caramelised Banana, followed by White Corn, Sablé Breton and Century Egg.

Snowskin Ang Ku with Cashew 'Char Siu' Praline and Beetroot, followed by Malaysian Chocolate with Cacao Nibs.

By the time those final bites disappeared, we were very, very full. But it had been a fascinating dinner.

It was at this point that they finally revealed the Mystery Fish to us. It was a red snapper which had been aged to give it a firmer texture and prevent it from flaking. Even Chiefeater Luke Soon, who eats a lot of fish, was stumped by the identity of the fish.

Pricing

The Inert.ia tasting menu with the Wagyu was RM768++ per person for our dinner.
The duck option would have been RM568++ per person.

We added foie gras to our meal which was RM100++ extra.

And we paired our meal with a bottle of Château d'Armailhac 2013 - RM450++