PJ Old Town Hawker Centre Bak Kut Teh

Store #39 in the PJ Old Town Hawker Centre opposite the wet market - Tian Tian Lai has been serving for at least 40 years, probably longer. Bak Kut Teh or BKT is one of those dishes everyone gets a little religious about; similar to the Adobos of the Philippines, every family has their own recipe;  there’s also the Teochew (peppery) vs Hokkien (herbal) vs Hakka (?) variants that we love to critique and of course the incessant Malaysia vs Singapore comparisons.

I guess Tian Tian Lai is what we’d label as a KL version: a diluted version of the gao-ness we get from the Klang variant, yet more balanced to some palates - a sub variant of the Hokkien type if you will.

Tian Tian Lai serves youtiao. You can pair with your choice cuts of meat, but with BKT it’s really just the symphony between broth and meat. For purists, I’d recommend skipping the bowl of rice (don’t expect calrose grains) and just go with the youtiao, if you really must. Best way for me is to take in a few (2-3) of small bowls of different choice cuts each.

If you’re willing to brave the occasional rat, and the ‘wetness’ of the market nearby.. Do come early, they sell out before lunch! Overall, Tian2 is a relatively cheap and hearty eat; and as usual, with my requirements, consistent.. consistency over intensity, always..

Business Hours (of PJ Old Town Hawker Centre - not necessarily of the BKT stall)
Opens Daily
08:00 am - 06:00 pm