Dinner at Bar.Kar

There are not many restaurants in Kuala Lumpur that one would describe as “imposing” at first sight. But as you enter the large arch carved into the façade wall of Bar.Kar, you are met with a seemingly dead end stacked with chopped wood. A path opens to the side, leading guests into a mirrored entryway that gives the illusion that you are part of a cabin-esque installation. This would be the time to grab a quick mirror selfie.

Bar.Kar is the brainchild of Soh Yong Zhi and Lee Zhe Xi, the dynamic duo behind Eat and Cook who took the local gastronomic scene by storm with their “Malaysian-style omakase” concept. The restaurant quickly rose to fame after its debut in 2020, securing Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ American Express One To Watch award and ranking No 81 on the extended list the same year. Last year, Eat and Cook climbed up to No 79 and got a mention in the Michelin Guide.

Those in the know would already be aware of the young chefs’ zero-to-hero backstory. Lee and Soh, both turning 27 this year, were culinary school buddies at Berjaya University College. But unlike students who live it up at uni, the pair, along with their friend Steve Lee, were eager to assimilate into the restaurant industry as quickly as possible.

Whenever they had a break, they would work part-time to gain experience. There was always fanciful talk about setting up a place together, where each chef would occupy a floor and focus on different cuisines, but after graduation, they went their separate ways, taking up roles at hotels and restaurants.

Yes, having frequented Burnt Ends for a decade - this place feels familiar. But our recent soirées at Atelier Binchotan gave me a taste of more authentically, locally (Malaysia) sourced flavours - which I honestly prefer over the West’s take on fire play.

The standouts for me were the locally infused flavours such as the grilled cockles with fish sauce (budu from Northern M’sia), and the unni & kaya toasts.

I personally think Atelier Binchotan does a better job with their mini burgers and foie gras delicatessens.

The one that was a letdown was the picanha. It was medium rare but lacked the depth of flavour I expected. I think it was Angus. We could have gone Miyazaki - and it should have been more forgiving. But this picanha could only muster 5.5/10 for me. The lowest score of the night.