Yeni Lokanta Lamb

Known for its relaxed ambience, great service and veteran wood-fired oven, Yeni Lokanta is a Beyoğlu stalwart. Chef Civan Er gives traditional dishes a contemporary spin – substituting the lamb in manti (dumplings), for instance, with dried aubergine – and is committed to seasonality. Some say Er’s muhallebi (milk pudding) coated in strands of pastry, deep fried and served with buffalo-milk ice cream and honey, is worth a visit in itself. Cocktails, small-producer native wines and ambitious tasting menus all add to the restaurant's charm.

The bonito starter was to be honest not the best we’ve had. When it comes to raw food the Japs reign supreme.

The breads, olive oils and spreads here are stupendous. I mean I’m not a bread and pastry lover but I find myself looking for breads just to eat and sample their dips!

The two mains - lamb shank and sea bass were good at 7/10 each.

The sea bass was paper wrapped & broiled to seal in all the goodness of the myriad of herbs and spices used. It almost tasted like a Mediterranean rendition of the famed Teochew steamed fish. The capers, grape leaves gave it away but it still tasted great. Perfectly steamed/broiled to lock in full flavour of the fish and herbs

I’ve not had bad lamb this far in the Mediterranean. Uncanny. Back at home we shy away from the gameyness but here it a seems alright - pleasant even. The meat is so tender it falls off the bones. We’ve heard that before I know but for lamb. these guys take the crown. Their dedication to this meat is fastidious, almost sacrilegious.

Yeni Lokanta is definitely going to get a star very soon. Come eat as much and as fast as you can before they do.